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Although hidden among the Alps' highest massifs and situated at 1035 m a.s.l, owing to 11.6 long Mt. Blanc tunnel, Chamonix is easily accessible for the tourists coming from south and east Europe. The tunnel, built in 1965 underwent a dreadful disaster on March 42, 1999, when a truck inside it caught fire, which spread in the tunnel killing 39 people. As a rule after such catastrophes, it underwent major changes to become one of the safest, but also most expensive tunnels in Europe; two-way fee for personal vehicles is EUR 41.40.
At the same time, Chamonix has become more accessible and more popular, not only in France, but throughout the world. The town beneath the highest peak of western Europe offers galore when it comes to skiing, and which is more important, its offer is unique compared to popular close by ski centers.
The first impression of Chamonix feels different that any other experience of an Alps' resort. It could be compared maybe only to the Swiss Zermatt, which also abounds in huge natural resources, has great tradition and is known for its exclusiveness. Accordingly, apart from classical ski and sports offer, here you will find very exclusive restaurants and stores. You can try your luck in some of the casinos, or take a stroll through the town's narrow and lively streets and experience the scent of history, at the same time enjoying the alluring scent of famous French cheeses, chocolate, and tasteful Italian espresso which the French readily took over from their neighbors.
A substantial number of 155 km of ski runs will seem quite solid to an inexperienced skier or snowboarder. However, Chamonix offers a lot more than this simple number refering to 5 resorts circling this picturesque Alpine town. Les Planards, Grand Montets, Domaine de Balme, Brévent - Flégère and Les Houches resorts form a certain ring around Chamonix, offering versatile skiing for all types of skiers.
Les Planards is a small town resort intended for beginners and those who don't want to ski too far from the town. There are only 4 trails covered with even 41 snow cannons. You can reach the resort by using public transport, and it is possible to buy a ski lift pass exclusively for it, at the price of EUR 10. Another option is Chamonix Le Pass, or Mt. Blanc Unlimited ski pass. Interestingly enough, apart from this resort Chamonix offers two more small resorts for beginners, with a couple of runs, surface lifts and beginners polygons at the foot of the slopes, where the stations for gondolas departing for larger resorts are situated. These resorts are called Les Chosalets, situated at the foot of Grand Montets resort in Argentière village, and Le Savoy, situated at the foot of Brévent - Flégère resort.
The turn has come to present the larger and more popular resorts. On the border with Switzerland, at the greatest distance from Chamonix, Domaine de Balme is situated above the town of Le Tour. The resort spans from 1264 m to 2270 m a.s.l. and is great for intermediate skiers who will here found nice blue runs and a couple of longer northern-oriented runs leading down to the village of Vallorcine. The transport of skiers is ensured using two gondolas, and the rest of the lifts are mostly surface lifts (anchor lifts), and a couple of chair lifts. Advanced skiers can get somewhat bored with this resort, but it's not a bad choice during sunny days.
As you return toward Chamonix you come to Brévent - Flégère ski centre situated at the opposite side of Mt. Blanc massif. The resort is mostly south and southwest oriented, which makes it very sunny and popular for families. Brévent and Flégère resorts are connected by a standing gondola, without which they would be completely separated. The runs on the resort are very wide and versatile - typically French. The resort abounds in natural snow and offers an unforgettable view of Chamonix and Mt. Blanc, for which the inhabitants say is best seen from 2525 m high Brévent peak. The peak is reachable by a modern standing gondola, on whose upper station maybe the most elite (read: the most expensive) Chamonix's restaurant is situated, with a hanging terrace overlooking the roof of the Alps and Western Europe. You can descend to Chamonix using one of the black or red ski runs, or by Flégère or Planpraz gondolas.
The resort situated next to Mt. Blanc is a special treat. Brochures describe Grand Montets as a "freeride paradise", which is completely true. Starting from 1252 m all the way to 3275 m a.s.l., it offers 2000 m of vertical drop that can be skied in 1001 ways...using the runs or even better, avoiding them, which will be discussed later on. Grand Montets is accessible by a large standing gondola or using a chair lift. Both ski lifts whisk you to the resort's main plateau, above the tree line. Whereever you go from here, you're bound to see a real paradise. Gondolas and chairlifts from here take you to the peaks offering some of the most stunning views in the Alps, and the best quality of snow on the resort. From here, you can continue your ride to the top using a standing gondola, or an "egg" gondola whisking you up to 2765 m a.s.l and the very edge of the cliff bordering with the popular Mer de Glace.
Les Houces is the last resort that is more or less a part of Chamonix. More or less, because recently a decision has been made that Les Houches is no longer a part of the complex of the mentioned resorts, which makes it only partly accessible for skiers possessing unlimited ski pass. (Political) debate over this decision continues. Popular ski centre that plays host to the Ski World Cup is situated at the lowest altitude among the resorts mentioned above. Its slopes span from 1010 m to1900 m a.s.l, looking more "Italian" than "French". The runs are covered in artificial snow, well cared for, and intended for skiers and snowboarders into groomed slopes.
Speaking of the difficulty level and the character of the slopes, everyone will here find something for themselves. The runs are mostly classified as blue or red and are not too demanding. They are maintained on a daily basis, and you will quite often run into a trail that stayed "untouched" throughout the day. However, the area outside the ski runs is skied over and over again. All the resorts are very well connected by public bus transport. The buses operate very frequently, and the operating schedule is available at every station. Also, there are monitors in buses, shoving their current position, and next stations, so there is no way you could get lost.
Skiers can opt for two kinds of ski passes: Chamonix Le Pass (weekly pass at EUR 192), or Mt. Blanc Unlimited (EUR 235). The former covers the resorts of De Balme and Brévent – Flégère, all the small town resorts for beginners, and Grand Montets, except its highest gondola taking skiers to the top itself, for which you have to pay extra. Mt. Blanc Unlimited ski pass includes complete Chamonix Le Pass, with the gondola at Grand Montets included in the price as well, and also the gondola in Les Houches covering a few runs, Tramway du Mt. Blanc starting from far away Le Fayet, complete Courmayeur resort at the Italian side of Mt. Blanc, bus line to this resort (through Mt. Blanc tunnel), and the gondola to the most popular place in Chamonix – 3842 m high Aiguille du Midi.
The real story of Chamonix begins exactly with Aiguille du Midi. According to local mountain guides, 155 km of runs make up only 2 % of the complete Chamonix ski area; the rest 98% refers to off piste. Off piste is the 'trademark' of the Chamonix resort, and boundless possibilities it offers can hardly be compared to any other resort, not only in France, but in the world as well. Almost 3000 m of vertical drop that you will experience if you ski down from the Aiguille du Midi is one of the most famous and most beautiful freeride descents in the world. Valle Blanche, which is 20 km away from Chamonix if you take the ski/snowboard route, abounds with exquisite beauty and almost unreal harmony of snow and ice, but it is also full of danger. Tens of thousands of skiers, boarders, tourists and mountaineers each year visit this popular French peak which is one of the starting points for the descent of Mt. Blanc peak, and also the closest site to that peak that can be reached without having the knowledge of mountaineering skills. Apart from descent down Valle Blanche, countless freeride routes and some of most popular glacier and non-glacier off piste routes in the world start from the top of Grand Montet. During sunny days you will hardly find a centimeter of untouched snow beside the groomed slopes. However, the descent down the Argentiere glacier or on the other side towards Mer de Glace offers an adventure that you will remember for the rest of your life. There are also great, partly forest freeride tours in Domaine de Balme and Brvent-Flegere, as well as in neighboring Courmayer in Italy.
Real and the best freeride routes are hidden from sight, so the best option is to go skiing with a local ski guide, whose daily engagement will cost you around EUR 300. The guides are not only familiar with the best freeride routes but will also make sure you get a true pleasure from skiing, without the fear of crevices, cliffs, or loosing your way. Those craving for pristine snow can opt for heli-skiing, which, due to French ban, has a starting point in Courmayer. Skiers and boarders eager for adventure of heli-skiing will descend from 4 200 m (!) on the Italian side of Mt. Blanc.
Prices in Chamonix are typically French, that is, expensive. Prices such as EUR 17 for Spaghetti Bolognese, or EUR 10 for Tiramisu are more a rule than exception. Lunch in town is rarely less than EUR 15; mostly, a menu is between EUR 20 and EUR 25 per person. Juices and beers are from EUR 3.5 to EUR 10. Unlike on some other (e.g., Italian) resorts, there are not many restaurants on the slopes; only one or two. For detailed prices, take a look at the photo gallery.
Prices in food stores are acceptable. Chamonix has a few large and well-stocked supermarkets (e.g. "Spar"). The good thing is that Chamonix is a town with 5000 inhabitants, so it is not oriented only on tourists, which can be seen if you compare the prices in Chamonix stores with the prices in some exclusively tourist-oriented places such as Tignes, Val Thorens, La Plagne or Les deux Alpes). There are lots of sports stores in Chamonix, some of them being specialized exclusively in mountaineering equipment. There are many ski rent and ski service stores. Considering a great number of tourists from Great Britain, salespeople are familiar with English language. Staff in specialized sports stores have good knowledge of the products they sell, as well as experience, and will gladly help with all that you are interested in. Like other towns in France, Chamonix has a large open-air market, where on Saturdays you can buy some of the local cheeses, meat products, or some other French specialty food.
If you have never visited a resort where almost no one is wearing popular ski brands, but skis in mountaineering and freeride equipment, where race and cross skis are a rarity, or if you thought that you are one of the rare people who think a blizzard is good weather, or that it is normal to get up at six to go skiing after a whole night of snowing, or, that you are one of the rare skiers on touring or freeride skis, you should definitely visit Chamonix! Here you will find many people that think just like you. It is a town which has 5000 inhabitants, but in winter the number of its residents amounts up to 50000, and it has up to 100000 residents in summer. Worth checking it out, don't you think?
Elinka Barišić
Prices are valid for 09/10 season.
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